Paint = Peacock
Finish = Top Coat and Black Glaze
Step by Step Process:
Clean – this buffet was sitting in an attic and needed a good cleaning. I used American Paint Company’s Surface Prep/Brush Cleanser (pictured above) with some warm water and wiped clean. It is amazing the grime that this product will cut through. I love it and it smells lemon clean! It also will last you a long time. I use it to clean paint and wax brushes too.
Remove the hardware and put aside.
Paint – I brushed on two coats of American Paint Company’s Peacock. Peacock has great coverage and with two coats I was done! Peacock looks different in various lights. I attached several pictures at different angles so you can see what I mean. I did water down the paint slightly for a thinner application of paint to give me a smoother, less textured finish.
Seal – One coat of American Paint Company’s Top Coat (pictured above), watered down slightly. 90% product, 10% water. This step seals the paint and allows me some working time with the glaze.
Glaze – Pour some of American Paint Company’s Black Glaze into a container and mix in some water. I never measure but my guess is a ratio of 60% glaze, 40% water. Have four (4) things ready…. 1) Watered down glaze 2) paint brush 3) damp cloth 4) dry cloth (be sure the cloth you use is lint free). I work in small sections and brush on the glaze with my paint brush to cover the paint surface. I will do a drawer, or cabinet panel and work section by section to give myself plenty of time to pull back the glaze without it drying…. And, it does dry quick. The black glaze dominates the peacock when you first brush it on. That’s ok. Take your dry cloth and wipe back the glaze to expose the paint color and use your cloth to push the glaze into the corners and areas where the wood would normally age. The more you wipe back, the more glaze you take off. This is where the artist in you can have some fun. I pulled the glaze across the drawer with my cloth with the wood grain. If you need to remove more glaze, use the damp cloth; however, be careful, you may find the wet cloth removes too much of the glaze. If that happens, let the glaze dry and try again. Layer the glaze until you’re happy with the results. The Top Coat under the glaze allows you to move the glaze and work it into the areas you want. The layer of Top Coat applied before the glaze also prevents the glaze from seeping into the paint. Tip: try working on the sides of your piece first. If you make a mistake, it will be less noticeable. Get the feel of the glaze before you start glazing the front drawers or top. If you want more confidence before applying glaze to your furniture, practice on piece of molding or scrap wood.
Seal – Once glaze is applied to my liking and dry, I seal the glaze with Top Coat. I water down the Top Coat for a matte finish. If you want a satin finish, apply Top Coat full strength. The ratio I use for a matte finish is 80% Top Coat, 20% water. I work the Top Coat into the finish and allow it to dry for 1 hour before applying the next layer of Top Coat. I generally apply 2 coats of top coat on the base and 4 coats on the top for extra protection. If kids are using the piece, I apply 5 coats.
As always, we are here to answer your questions. We love to hear what you think! Share your experiences with us.
Jen, Ivy Lane